The rugby polo shirt, the Breton shirt and the Henley sweater
Rugby was born in the mid-19th century in England. Two clubs, both founded in 1880, embraced their kinship by wearing similar jerseys with horizontal stripes on a green background: red and white for the Tigers, black and gold for the Saints. Evolving from a traditional shirt to a jersey-knit polo and eventually into technical fabrics, the rugby shirt has taken on many forms before becoming a staple in men’s wardrobes.
The Breton shirt has been closely linked to the maritime world since the 17th century. Originally, the “marinière” was a blouse without stripes, featuring a large sailor collar. The striped garment we now call the marinière actually comes from a sailor's workwear piece once known as the tricot rayé.
It was a type of undershirt tucked into high-waisted sailor trousers, serving as a protective layer. In 1858, it officially became part of the French Navy uniform. The stripes were designed to make sailors more visible during dangerous maneuvers and easier to spot in the event of falling overboard.
This sweater was originally used as an undergarment during the 19th century.
Its lack of a collar and its buttoned placket made it easy to put on and comfortable—qualities that quickly appealed to athletes, who adopted it for training. In fact, it gets its name from the English town of Henley-on-Thames, which has hosted the Royal Regatta since 1839—the most prestigious rowing competition in England, where participants began wearing it to row. Until the early 1970s, the “Henley” sweater remained confined to sportswear and even inspired the placket style seen on polos and rugby shirts. It wasn’t until the rise of the t-shirt in the second half of the 20th century that the Henley found its place in men’s everyday wardrobes, becoming a versatile staple.