A guide to the icons of men’s footwear

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A guide to the icons of men’s footwear

There is a wide variety of shoes, each suited to a specific style and occasion. Whether casual, formal, or sporty, choosing the right shoes is essential to combine comfort and elegance every day.

SNEAKERS

Rubber, discovered in the 15th century, is the foundational element behind the modern sneaker. Its silent, grippy sole has made it an essential part of sports footwear.

The first athletic shoe appeared in 1868, created by Candde Manufacturing in New Haven, USA. At the time, sports shoes were designed specifically for athletes—particularly basketball players—for better comfort and to limit foot perspiration. The iconic Converse, born in 1908 in Massachusetts, followed the same logic. Its high-top design was originally intended to protect players’ ankles.

By the early 20th century, names like New Balance and Spring Court (a French brand and the inventor of the “tennis shoe”) had emerged. Puma and Adidas followed in 1948 and 1949, founded by brothers Adolf and Rudolf Dassler. In 1972, Nike revolutionised the sneaker world with the launch of the “Nike Air,” the first air-cushioned shoe.

From that point on, sneakers broke free from the sports field. These urban versions, known today simply as sneakers, became a staple of everyday style—infinitely wearable and endlessly versatile.

OXFORDS

Oxfords, known in France as Richelieus, originated in 1825 as a refined evolution of the “oxonian” ankle boot worn by students at Oxford University. Seeking to distinguish themselves from the prevailing high boots of the time, these students embraced the sleek new design.

Oxfords are defined by their closed lacing system, where the eyelets are stitched under the vamp (the front part of the shoe). This creates a slim, streamlined silhouette with a narrow V-shaped opening, making them more formal than their Derby counterparts. Known as “Oxford” in the UK, “Balmoral” in Ireland and Scotland, and “Bal-type” in the US, this shoe has become a global classic.

Nota bene: Due to their snug fit, Oxfords may not be ideal for those with a high instep. In that case, Derbies offer a more forgiving and equally elegant alternative.

DERBIES

The Derby shoe takes its name from Edward Smith-Stanley, 14th Earl of Derby and Prime Minister of the United Kingdom in the 19th century. The Earl found the tight lacing of the Oxford shoe uncomfortable, prompting his shoemaker to design a shoe with open lacing.

The Derby features what is known as “open” lacing. The eyelets are placed on two quarters sewn on top of the vamp (which refers to the front part of the shoe), and these quarters are made from two leather pieces that can be lifted. This type of lacing allows for easier adjustment to the shape of the foot, offering a tighter or looser fit depending on the pressure desired—ideal for relieving tightness when feet swell.

Timeless and more versatile than the Oxford, this model pairs just as well with a suit as it does with jeans or chinos.

BROGUES

The term brogue may stem from the medieval Norwegian word brok (shoe), which evolved into Bróg in Gaelic, and finally brogue in English. British invaders encountering the rugged footwear of the Irish and Scots gave it this enduring name.

Brogues are defined by their decorative perforations, which were once functional drainage holes, designed for traversing the marshlands and peat bogs of the British Isles. Traditionally made from untreated leather and fitted with thick soles to prevent sinking, brogues were built for survival.

Today’s brogues retain this heritage in their layered leather panels, serrated edges, and ornamental perforations. The hallmark of the classic brogue is the wingtip—a decorative “M” shape at the toe that extends toward the sides of the shoe.

LOAFERS

Loafers are a shared piece of sartorial heritage, with multiple cultures laying claim to their origins. Three major stories stand out:

- In 1926, British shoemaker Wildsmith Shoes created a stylish indoor shoe for King George V—thus the Wildsmith Loafer was born.

- In 1930, Norwegian shoemaker Nils Gregoriusson Tveranger drew inspiration from Iroquois footwear to design a new slip-on.

- In 1934, American designer George Bass launched the iconic Weejuns, inspired by Norwegian fishing shoes brought back by U.S. students.

Easy to slip on and relaxed in spirit, loafers became the go-to shoes for American college students in the 1930s. The signature slot on the vamp was perfect for inserting a coin—hence the name Penny Loafer.

In the 1960s, Italian engineers created the ultimate driving loafer, lightweight and flexible, with rubber pebble soles for optimal grip on the pedals—both elegant and functional.

Whether worn with or without socks, with summer shorts or a formal suit, loafers are effortlessly stylish in every situation.

CHELSEA BOOT

The Chelsea boot was originally designed for equestrian use. It was British soldiers returning from India who brought the inspiration back to London.

It was then Joseph Sparkes-Hall who reimagined and propelled the boot beyond the realm of fashion for over a century.

The authentic Chelsea boot is a smooth, black ankle boot made from a single piece of leather, with two rubber elastic panels on the sides. It typically features a loop or fabric pull-tab at the back and front of the shaft, allowing it to be easily slipped on.

They take their name from the famous London neighborhood of Chelsea. At the time, they were worn by British army officers, but also by young Mods during the 1960s.

JODHPUR BOOTS

These boots first appeared just a century ago in India, in the Jodhpur region, where many Englishmen had settled and played polo. When they were not in the saddle, the players wore this leather boot style. Robust, comfortable, and easy to slip on, they are recognizable by their strap that wraps around the ankle and fastens with a buckle.

It took only a few years for the boot to make a name for itself in England and across the Atlantic, where it was sold at Saks on Fifth Avenue as early as 1927, becoming an absolute classic of the aristocratic male wardrobe. A pedigree that caught the eye of Parisian minets at the Drugstore in the 1960s. Across the Channel, the style was embraced by countercultures—from bikers to rockers—partly thanks to its durability and accessibility. Most bootmakers offered a version throughout the 20th century.

The Jodhpur boot is made from only two leather quarters, often full-grain calfskin, which makes it easy to put on, and from a leather strap that, wrapping around the ankle, tightens these two quarters. The sole is attached to the upper using either a Blake or Goodyear welt, which explains its sturdiness and allows for resoling.

BLAKE STITCH OR GOODYEAR WELT?

Invented in 1858 by American Lyman Reed Blake, this technique involves a single stitch that binds the insole, outsole, and upper together. The result is a sleek, elegant shoe appreciated for its refined profile. While early versions suffered from water seepage through the sole, modern techniques have corrected this flaw. However, Blake-stitched shoes are not resoleable, a point to consider when investing.

Patented by Charles Goodyear Jr. in 1869, the Goodyear welt involves a horizontal double stitch. The first connects the upper, insole, and welt; the second joins the welt to the outsole. This method gives the shoe superior strength, flexibility, and remarkable longevity—with the added benefit of being fully resoleable. It’s a hallmark of excellence in shoemaking.

CAMARGUAISE BOOTS

Camarguaises were designed by southern French shoemakers for local cattle herders and horsemen who rode daily through marshlands. Cut directly from thick leather, these robust boots were made to withstand freshwater, seawater, and the test of time.

In the 1960s, motorcyclists adopted them for their rugged durability. By the 1970s, their raw elegance made them a cult piece among French icons such as Johnny Hallyday, Françoise Hardy, and Jacques Dutronc.

Typically unlined, made from oily or suede calf leather, and rising mid-calf, the Camarguaise features two side pull-tabs for easy wear. Over time, it develops a unique patina—becoming even more beautiful with age.